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Venice to Cremona aboard River Cloud II

The Campanile
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Venice

  1. Sept 17. Depart NY for Venice. Fly on Delta, which went bankrupt the day before we departed. Didn't seem to affect the plane staff. Felt sorry for the workers, many of whom will lose their pensions. 
  2. Sept. 18. Venice. Water taxi to Piazza San Marco for lunch. Great fun climbing in and out of the taxi. Waves made boat rock up and down by nearly two feet. (Not everyone was as excited by this feature of our journey) Embark River Cloud in afternoon. Cocktails and dinner served on the ship. Night visit to the Basilica on the Piazza San Marco. The piazza looked magical as it shone through a light rain. The Basilica was initially poorly lighted, but slowly the lights were turned on, revealing the brilliant frescoes on the walls and ceiling. This visit was the highlight of the trip.
  3. Sept 19. Visit the Accademia, a museum of Venetian Art, including Titian and Venetsiana. Afterwards, we boarded the River Cloud, but high winds prevented our boat from leaving the lagoon and sailing into the Adriatic Sea. We stayed on the dock overnight, then went to the sights by bus. The River Cloud made the journey without us. The captain said that the boat was dangerous without a keel and would be transferred in the future to the European rivers, perhaps the Danube or the Rhine. Venice-Taglio di Po. Visit I Frari to see choir stalls, works by Bellini, Donatello and Titian. Visit the Accademia. Sail thru Giudecca Canal. Captain's dinner.
  4. Sept 20. Ferrara. Our favorite city. Morning cruise along Po. Lecture by Marian. Visit Ferrara, home of the Este family, a beautiful city surrounded by a red brick wall and green ramparts. See the D'Este Castle built in 1385 and modified in the 15th century to become the Ducal Palace. The Cathedral dates from 1135 and is partly in the Romanesque and partly Gothic. Wonderful fresco of the months in the Hall of the Months in Palazzo Schifanoia. 
  5. Sept 21. Mantua. Drive to Mantua, seat of the Gonzagas. Visit Palazzo Ducale and see the Camera degli Spose, painted by Mantegna. Cathedral built in the 16th century, with an 18th century fascade and a Romanesque campanile.
  6. Sept 22. Verona. Lecture by Alice: So in Love! Drive to Verona to visit church of San Zeno Maggiore, the Roman arena (could seat 30,000 people), Piazza del Erbe and the Gothic tombs. Lovely painted houses on the main square. Overnight in Boretto.
  7. Sept 23. Parma. Drive to Parma to visit palace of the Farneses, the National Gallery with Leonardo's Head of a Girl, and masterpieces by Correggio. Visit Convent of St Paul to see Camera del Correggio, the baptistry and the cathedral with the Assumption in its dome
  8. Sept 24. Cremona. Cruise to Cremona. Lecture by Marian: Patrons in Milan, Leonardo's Last Supper. Cremona was the cradle of the violin trade; the first violins were made by Amati in 1536. Visit a violin-maker's shop and listen to a short concert on a Stradovarius Captain Kamenov's farewell dinner in the evening.
  9. Sept 25. Milan, Cernobbio. Disembark River Cloud. Drive to Milan to see Brera Academy, a great collection of Renaissance and Baroque art. Mantegna's dead Christ the standout. Visit Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and Leonardo's Last Supper. The painting has been worked on by conservators and restorers for 20 years. They redid a postage stamp size of paint every day. Where paint has disappeared, they fill in with watercolor paint. Enormous improvement in the image since we last saw it. Drive by bus to Lake Como and Villa d'Este on Cernobbio, where we stay for 3 nights. Villa D'Este still the haunt of rich travelers like Madonna. The villa looks like the entryway to heaven. Dinner in hotel.
  10. Sept 26. Cernobbio. Boat excursion on Lake Como. Lunch in Bellagio at Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. Guided walking tour of Bellagio and Gardens of Villa Melzi. Visit 16th century Villa del Balbianello.
  11. Sept 27. Cernobbio. Walking tour of Como. Afternoon at leisure. Farewell dinner.
  12. Sept 28. Milan, New York. Transfer to Milan for return flight to NY.

  • General comments on the trip
  • Pro: Wonderful introduction to the beautiful cities of northern Italy, much less visited and known to outsiders than those in the south. Highlight of the trip--A visit to the Palazzo San Marco in Venice on a rainy night with few tourists, followed by a visit to the basilica, where the lights were turned on gradually to reveal the great Byzantine-style mosaics in the interior of the church. At the finish, three days in the Villa D'Este on Lake como. A style of living we all would enjoy, but very few of us could afford ($800 a day).
  • Con: Our airline, Delta, went bankrupt the day before we flew to Venice. No repercussions, however. The cruise up the Po was in reality more a series of visits via bus to great cities, using the River Cloud II as a moving hotel.

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